March 03, 2005

Schwartz - Hail and Farewell, Holy Land (Part V) - For my brother Scott

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For my brother Scott
Originally posted on December 25th, 2004, possibly the single most exhilarating day of my time in Israel-Palestine.


"Ahlan Chris, Welcome..." Me and my friend Rayek Rizek, the former mayor ("general secretary") of Neve Shalom/Wahat as-Salaam, at his store ("merchandise center"), the Ahlan Center, which stands beside the Guesthouse.

For Christmas 2004, I had long been planning to go to Bethlehem. Unfortunately, yesterday it rained almost all day, so I figured that the celebrations might've gotten canceled (they weren't, as it turns out, and Abu Mazen, who I call "Palestine's Bill Clinton," a politician so likeable because he has no meaningful political philosophy or positions, actually showed up.) Then when I thought about it, I realized that I would have to travel for three to four hours, wet, cold, eventually unfed, to a city of strangers to sing carols and watch fireworks, without even a pre-arranged place to sleep (though that didn't worry me so much: the Arab inns undoubtedly would have struck a deal, or some of the Christian pilgrims would have taken me in.) My brother Scott told me what he wanted for Christmas: lots of photographs of me in Bethlehem, and a postcard from either Bethlehem or Jerusalem marked on Christmas eve. Well, I can't provide him the postcard just yet, and while I didn't go to Bethlehem, I did have a good Christmas Eve, and it's been a very serene Christmas Day, and I've taken lots of photographs. So, for you Scott, here's Christmas in Latrūn.

Christmas Eve



I spent most of the day relaxing at the hotel and my friend's shop, writing in my journal, reflecting upon the past weeks. The rain came and went and returned with the fury of a medieval Turkic conqueror, and the chrome clouds were thick, omnipotent. The atmosphere was an imperial blue, and looking out from the hotel to Ramle and beyond, seeing the little lights of tiny houses flicker in the distance, I felt as though the expanse stretching toward the Mediterranean Sea from the crest of the ancient Latrun tel was the final plateau of the world, sitting on the edge of eternity.



Then at 7:30 PM I went over to the Shippens' house for dinner. Dorit Shippin and a former German volunteer from the 1980s served us a lovely vegetarian dinner with spicey potatoes, some alien but delicious green egg pie, and an amazing salad with avocado sauce. Yum yum. In the first photograph is my current boss Aton, one of the original Israeli families to permanently settle in this village during the early 1980s. The other fellow in the photograph is Boaz Kita'in, father of Tom, who died in Lebanon in a 1997 military helicopter accident. The second photograph is of the Shippens' Christmas bush.




After dinner, the villagers attended a special Latin/French/Hebrew/Arabic midnight mass at the nearby Latrūn monastery. The first photograph is of the monks' paper mache manger scene; the second photograph is of their Christmas palm tree (quite devilish looking, isn't it?); the third photograph is inside the monastery itself.



Howard Shippen and Bob Mark, a Jewish-American who made aliyah to Israel and is now a resident of the village.


Ri'da, a new Palestinian resident of the village. She, an English teacher at the village school, and her husband Ibrahim, a musician, are really cool people, very down-to-earth, not at all ostentatious. For the last five years they have lived in the most rundown buildings of the village. In January they leave for Zanzibar! Ibrahim got a job as a music teacher down there.


Vered, the pool manager, for whom I worked July through October.


An embarassing shot of Junko, a former Japanese volunteer at the village and one of the sweetest people I have ever met.


A cool-looking Latrūn monk.


Christmas Day




Latrūn and the view to Ramle and Tel Aviv after the storm. These photographs fail to capture the awesome might of those clouds. I stood with my friend Ori and watched as a huge black jetliner from Ben-Gurion airport vanished into the clouds. The sheer audacity of that plane, so giant on the ground but so damned miniscule up against that sky, soaring straight into the mouth of heaven...


The hotel Christmas tree.


Rayek's shop.


The grey and black stray kitten who lives at Rayek's shop, whom he has lovingly named "The bitch." He once accidentally locked her in his store, and she proceeded to smash his shelves. In this photograph, she is giving me a stare that very obviously is saying, 'Did I give you permission to photograph me? Bugger off.'


Rayek fumbling over a puzzle. I like this photograph of him, because it really captures both his meditative nature.


Index
Part I: My last visit to Beit Sīra; Campfires; Trip to Philadelphia
Part II: Other Photographs and Reminisces
Part III: Travels (Photographs and links)
Part IV: Favorite Locales
Part V: For my brother Scott (Christmas photographs)
There must be peace between symbols An article I wrote inspired by my time in Israel-Palestine, published in The Journal News newspaper.

Posted by Schwartz at March 3, 2005 12:10 AM
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